This bucket still has more chapters ahead

How to make it

1. 1

   Scrape off the thick crust of paint from the bottom and walls with the spatula, without fear of scratching the plastic or metal — the thick stuff comes off in flakes.

2. 2

   Pour warm water (or a bit of thinner, if it's oil-based paint) into the bucket and let it sit for about 10 minutes, wetting the dirty edges. The solvent softens the dried residue.

3. 3

   Scrub with the rough sponge or steel wool in circular motions, insisting on the crust line.

4. 4

   Pour the dirty liquid into a container and let it dry outdoors; once solid, it can be sent off with a proper destination — never down the drain.

5. 5

   Wash with water and mild soap to remove any solvent residue and smell.

How to make it

1. 1

   Remove the hard film floating on the surface and the truly insoluble pieces — they won't come back, and mixing them in would leave granules in the paint.

2. 2

   Add water a little at a time, starting with a small amount, stirring hard after each addition. Too much water makes the paint thin and low on coverage.

3. 3

   Stir for several minutes, crushing the clumps against the bucket walls until it becomes a homogeneous cream.

4. 4

   Pass it through the sieve or nylon stocking to catch the little bits that resisted and would leave marks on the wall.

5. 5

   Test on a piece of cardboard: if it spreads smoothly and covers, it's ready; if it's too thin, leave the lid ajar for a few hours to evaporate the excess water.

How to make it

1. 1

   Empty the bucket completely and let any paint residue dry fully — wet paint drips and makes a mess right at the finishing stage.

2. 2

   Sand inside and out to remove bubbles, hardened drips and loose spots: the smooth surface is what makes the new coating stick properly.

3. 3

   Wipe with a damp cloth to remove the sanding dust, because dust prevents any new paint from adhering.

4. 4

   Decide its fate: if it becomes a planter or cachepot, make 3 to 5 holes in the bottom so water can drain — without drainage, the roots rot.

5. 5

   Paint the outside with spray or water-based paint in whatever color you like; the dried paint crust on the inside can stay visible as a rustic texture or be covered too.

6. 6

   Let it dry in the shade for a few hours before filling it with soil or putting it to use.

How to make it

1. 1

   Scrape the dried paint residue from the inner walls with the knife or sandpaper — fresh or very loose paint can leach unwanted substances into the soil, so only plant when the residue is well stabilized.

2. 2

   Make 4 to 6 holes in the bottom with the nail and hammer, spaced apart — each hole is an exit for excess water, which is the roots' biggest enemy.

3. 3

   Place a 3-to-5-finger layer of sand or gravel at the bottom — this keeps the soil from clogging the holes and creating a waterlogged zone right below the roots.

4. 4

   Fill with substrate up to about 5 fingers from the rim, leaving room so the watering water doesn't overflow.

5. 5

   Plant your seedling or seed and water slowly until you see water escaping through the holes — this sign confirms the drainage is working.

6. 6

   Place the planter on a saucer or over small stones, away from surfaces that stain, and keep an eye on watering during the first days.

How to make it

1. 1

   Make a hole in the bottom of the bucket, in the center, and a side hole near the base — the central one lets the wick through, and the side one is for filling the reservoir and relieving excess.

2. 2

   Cut the plastic bottle at the height where it fits inside the bucket, keeping it mouth-up and slightly smaller than the inner diameter — it will hold the water without touching the substrate directly.

3. 3

   Thread the wick through the central hole of the bucket and leave a tip of about 10 centimeters hanging inside the bottle — the cotton pulls the water up by capillarity, slowly rising to the soil.

4. 4

   Fit the bottle inside the bucket and fill with substrate on top, burying the top end of the wick right in the middle of the soil, where the roots are.

5. 5

   Plant the seedling and fill the bottle with water through the side hole — from then on, the system feeds itself for days.

6. 6

   In the first days, water from the top as well, until the roots settle in and the wick takes over on its own.

How to make it

1. 1

   Wash the bucket well with water and a scrubbing pad, removing all loose paint residue — cleaning keeps residue from sticking to your tools later.

2. 2

   With the saw or utility knife, make vertical cuts along the top rim, creating "teeth" of different heights: the tall ones hold saws and levels, the short ones keep the contents visible.

3. 3

   Sand the cut edges to remove plastic burrs — this protects your hands when grabbing the tools.

4. 4

   If you want to separate screwdrivers from hammers, secure strips of reinforced adhesive tape crisscrossing the interior, creating simple dividers.

5. 5

   Hang the tape measure and level from the outer handle, using the holes that already exist on the bucket's rim tab.

6. 6

   Test the distribution: place the heaviest pieces at the bottom, in the center, so the bucket won't tip when you grab only what's near the edge.

How to make it

1. 1

   Clean the bucket inside and out with a damp cloth, without excess water — any moisture ruins mortar and grout at mixing time.

2. 2

   Sand the inner bottom to leave the surface rough — that roughness is what helps crush and mix, like the grooves of a stone mortar.

3. 3

   Dry it well and, if you want easier cleanup later, coat the bottom with a thin layer of used cooking oil, which creates a release film.

4. 4

   Weigh the empty bucket: if it's too light, place a flat stone at the bottom for stability so it doesn't "dance" while you pound the mix.

5. 5

   To use, place the material (grout, caulk) at the bottom and strike with pounding motions, turning the pestle with each strike to mix evenly.

6. 6

   When finished, soak it with water before the mix dries — dried grout inside plastic only comes off by breaking the bucket.

How to make it

1. 1

   Wash the bucket well inside and out and let it dry — wet paint residue slips and keeps the seat from sitting firm.

2. 2

   Measure the bucket's mouth and mark the board with that diameter slightly smaller (about 1 cm less), because the wood needs to rest on the rim without overhanging, where it would cause instability.

3. 3

   Cut the circle with the saw and sand the edges well — no burrs can remain, since this is the surface you'll sit on.

4. 4

   Rest the wooden lid over the bucket's mouth, inside the rim, and mark the points where it touches the inner wall; drill the wood at those points and screw with short screws, so the seated weight stays attached to the structure and doesn't wobble.

5. 5

   Test the stool by placing it on flat ground and sitting down slowly in the center — if it rocks, lightly sand the bucket's resting rim until it settles evenly, because three well-distributed contact points hold the weight without tipping.