The tube that holds infinite possibilities
That cardboard tube left over from paper towels or gift wrap is more powerful than it looks. Made of cellulose wound in a spiral, it has a surprisingly sturdy tubular structure — that's why it holds up entire rolls of paper without crushing. And best of all: you don't even need to take it apart in most ideas, which makes everything easier.
The cardboard tube is a favorite base among crafters precisely because of this combination of firmness and ease of cutting. From organization systems to toys, including seeds that sprout inside it, this simple cylinder can fill an entire afternoon of creation. Shall we open up the range of possibilities?
11
ideas
15 min – 2 h
estimated time
easy a medium
difficulty
Ideas at a glance
Custom drawer organizer
compartments for cables, makeup and odds and ends
Cable and cord organizer
wrap cords and avoid endless tangles
Biodegradable seed pot
plant the seedling together with the tube
Paper-mâché bowl
shred it, mix with glue and mold new shapes
Playhouse and stove toy
a pretend kids' kitchen with little doors and knobs
Cat house or scratching post
towers and tubes for your feline to love
Layered relief wall art
slices of the tube forming art on the wall
Basket woven from cardboard strips
basketry with braided strips
Garden bed and mulch cover
a bed base that turns into fertilizer
Countertop worm composter
carbon balancing out the plant scraps
Specialty
Crafts and Applied Hand Arts
Idea 1
Custom drawer organizer
Dividing drawers with cardboard tubes is an old trick of seamstresses and offices, which cut tubes to create compartments. It works because spiral-wound cardboard has walls resistant to compression — each cell holds its contents firmly, with nothing rolling around.
What you need
- Cardboard tubes (from toilet paper or paper towels) in varying heights
- Scissors or craft knife
- Ruler and pencil
- White glue or hot glue
- Contact paper, fabric or leftover paper for lining (optional)
How to make it
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1
Measure the inside height of your drawer and mark the tubes at that measurement — cutting them all the same makes the set sit straight and stay in place.
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2
Cut the tubes with a craft knife resting on the marking; a flat base is what ensures each cell stays stable in the drawer.
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3
Arrange the cells inside the drawer before gluing, placing the larger ones in the center and the smaller ones at the edges — this way the weight is distributed and nothing warps.
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4
Glue the tubes together and secure the set in the drawer with a bead of glue, so the organizer doesn't fall apart when pulling the drawer.
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5
If you want to go the extra mile, line each tube with paper or fabric inside and out — besides looking nice, it hides the printed marking on the cardboard.
Finishing touches
Use wider cells for socks and belts, and narrower ones for hair ties, pens or jewelry. If the drawer is deep, stack two rows of tubes to make use of the height.
Idea 2
Cable and cord organizer
Wrapping cords around tubes is a habit of electricians and musicians, who always store their cables coiled to avoid damaging the internal wiring. The cardboard works like a spool: it keeps the cable in gentle curves and prevents the knots that happen when the cord sits loose in a drawer.
What you need
- Cardboard tubes from toilet paper or paper towels
- Ribbon, rubber bands, fabric scraps or twine
- Scissors
- Pen for labeling (optional)
How to make it
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1
Coil the cable around your own elbow forming loops of similar size — this prevents twists that, over time, break the wires from the inside.
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2
Slip the coiled bundle through the center of the cardboard tube, leaving the plug on one side and the cable tip on the other, easy to reach.
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3
Secure the cable tip by tucking it inside the tube itself, which holds it by tension — the cardboard's thickness applies light, firm pressure without crushing the cord.
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4
Decorate with ribbon or fabric glued around the tube if you want to visually identify each type of cable.
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5
Write on the cardboard with a pen what that cable is (charger, headphones, extension cord) — the label avoids opening everything to find out.
Finishing touches
For thicker cords, like extension cords, use paper towel tubes which have a larger diameter. A smaller tube also works to store sewing threads or ribbons using the same principle.
Idea 3
Layered relief wall art
The technique comes from layered collage, similar to what paper-mâché artists did to create depth without a single drop of expensive paint. It works because cardboard cut into strips of different heights casts natural shadows, and it's the light hitting those shadows that creates the relief effect.
What you need
- A cardboard tube (from toilet paper or paper towels)
- Scissors or craft knife
- White glue
- A firm base (a piece of thick cardboard or a box)
- Colored paper, fabric scraps or gouache paint for finishing
How to make it
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1
Cut the tube into strips of varying heights — some 1 centimeter, others 3 or 4 — because the difference in height is what will create the relief shadows.
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2
Flatten the strips into ellipses, circles or petals, shaping them with your fingers so each piece takes on curves of leaves, waves or flowers.
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3
Draw a light outline on the base (a flower, mountains, a heart) to serve as a guide when gluing.
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4
Glue the larger pieces first, at the back of the composition, and work up with the smaller ones on top — layers from back to front create the sense of depth.
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5
Wait for the glue to dry well and paint or cover the strips before assembling, if you prefer a more colorful and uniform look.
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6
Brush a thin layer of white glue on top (it dries glossy) to protect and finish the piece.
Finishing touches
Make a series of three small frames with matching compositions to hang as a group. Taller pieces of tube become borders or organic frames around the piece.
Idea 4
Basket woven from cardboard strips
Weaving rigid strips is the same logic as traditional basketry, made by peoples all over the world with local fibers. Spiral-wound cardboard works well here because the spiral layers of the tube give the strip strength, and the alternating crossing (over, under) distributes tension and keeps the shape firm.
What you need
- Several cardboard tubes (about 5 to 8, depending on the basket size)
- Scissors or craft knife
- Hot glue or white glue
- A cup or container as a mold to shape it
- Tape or binder clips to hold while weaving
How to make it
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1
Cut the tubes lengthwise and then into strips of about 2 centimeters, always taking advantage of the edge spiral so the strip is stronger.
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2
Build the base by crossing 4 strips in a star shape, gluing the center to secure it — this star is the bottom of the basket.
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3
Fold the points of the star upward and start weaving a horizontal strip passing over and under each arm, rotating as you go.
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4
Use the cup as a mold inside the weave so the basket keeps its straight-wall shape as you build up the rows.
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5
When you run out of a strip, join the next one by gluing the ends behind, always hiding the joint between crossings.
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6
At the desired height, fold the ends of the arms inward and glue them to the last row to close the edge with a clean finish.
Finishing touches
Paint with acrylic paint or line the inside with a piece of fabric glued in place to store small items. A larger basket with handles on the edge becomes a desk organizer or bathroom caddy.
Idea 5
Paper-mâché bowl
Paper-mâché was born in ancient China and became all the rage in Victorian Europe, when artisans molded trays and little boxes that rivaled turned wood in beauty. The secret lies in the paper fibers: soaked in glue, they intertwine and, when dry, form a rigid, lightweight shell — like brand-new cardboard, but in whatever shape you want.
What you need
- A cardboard tube chopped into small pieces
- Hot water
- White glue
- A blender or fork to break down the fibers
- A sieve or thin cloth to drain
- A glass jar or bowl as a mold
- Petroleum jelly or plastic wrap to grease the mold
- Paint and varnish for the finish
How to make it
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1
Chop the tube into small pieces and soak in hot water for a few hours — the water softens the cellulose fibers and makes everything easier.
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2
Blend the mixture until it becomes a pulp and drain off the excess water through the sieve, leaving it damp but not soaked — little water prevents cracks during drying.
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3
Mix in the white glue until the paste is malleable and sticks between your fingers — it's what saturates the fibers and creates rigidity as it dries.
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4
Grease the mold with petroleum jelly and press the paste against the walls, forming a layer about 1 centimeter thick — pressing well removes air bubbles and makes the piece uniform.
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5
Let it dry for a day or two in a ventilated spot, and unmold carefully once it's evenly hard.
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6
Lightly sand the edges, paint and varnish to seal — the varnish keeps moisture from softening the piece again.
Finishing touches
Use the bowl to store small items, jewelry, or as a planter for a dried arrangement. If you want a more rustic texture, decorate with strips of paper glued on top instead of sanding.
Idea 6
Playhouse and stove toy
Toys made from boxes and tubes are part of generations of childhood memories — before plastic took over the shelves, kids played with whatever was around the house. The cardboard tube is perfect for this because its tubular structure holds the weight of small children leaning their hands on it, and each cylinder becomes a knob, a flame or a stove leg with a simple cut.
What you need
- A cardboard tube (several, if you have them)
- Scissors and craft knife (adult use)
- White glue or hot glue
- Gouache or acrylic paint
- Pieces of paper, fabric or foam sheets for details
- Markers or colored pencils
How to make it
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1
Paint the tubes in different colors and let them dry — painting before assembling is easier and gives a nicer finish.
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2
Cut some tubes in half to become the stove burners, and others into low rings to be the power knobs — the circle of the tube already mimics a real burner.
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3
Glue the tubes upright onto a flat piece of cardboard to build the stove, and glue the knob rings on the front, at the child's hand height.
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4
For the playhouse, glue tubes vertically as columns and use larger pieces of cardboard for walls and roof — the tubular shape of the tubes distributes weight and keeps the structure firm.
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5
Decorate with paper and fabric cutouts: windows, curtains, a chimney — every glued detail is one more layer of play.
Finishing touches
Let the child paint part of the decoration — that's half the fun. If the tubes are larger and sturdier, the stove gets legs and sits at floor height for playing while seated.
Specialty
Rustic and Structural Carpentry
Idea 7
Cat house or scratching post
Cardboard pressed in spiral layers is surprisingly resistant to compression — that's why factories use it to pack heavy loads. Cats love the texture for sharpening their claws, and crafters have discovered that whole tubes, joined together, become sturdy structures that hold the weight of a cat lying on them.
What you need
- A cardboard tube (a rolling tube; the thicker, the better)
- A saw or a strong craft knife with a fresh blade
- White glue or hot glue in abundance
- A rigid base (a leftover piece of plywood or several pieces of cardboard glued together)
- Sisal or rope (optional, to reinforce the scratching spots)
How to make it
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1
Measure the desired height: for a scratching post, about 50 to 60 cm works well, since it allows the cat to stretch fully — the taller the cat, the taller the post.
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2
Cut the tube into 5 to 8 cm rings for a house, or keep it whole for a scratching post — the rings stacked on their sides form the walls and the "bed" of the house.
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3
Glue the rings side by side onto the base, packed tightly together — the contact between the tubes distributes the weight, exactly like a honeycomb distributes loads.
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4
For the scratching post, secure the whole tube to the base with plenty of glue and, if you like, wrap sisal rope around the upper half — this extends its lifespan and adds texture variety.
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5
Let it dry for at least 12 hours before introducing it to the cat, since poorly dried glue comes loose with the first claw pull.
Finishing touches
Sprinkle a little catnip on the piece to attract your feline right away. If the cardboard starts to fray with use, just trim the loose edges with scissors — the structure keeps serving for months.
Idea 8
Structural table or stool
The physics of compression is generous to cardboard: a closed tube holds a lot of vertical load — engineers have even used cardboard structures in famous designer furniture. When the tubes work "standing up," each one becomes a column, and several columns together form a firm, lightweight base.
What you need
- 6 to 12 cardboard tubes of the same diameter (for the body)
- A top: crate wood, a plank or several layers of glued cardboard
- White glue (lots) or contact cement
- A rigid base for the floor
- Masking tape to hold during drying
- Craft knife and ruler
How to make it
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1
Cut all the tubes to the same height (35 cm for a stool, 40 to 45 cm for a low table) — equal height keeps the top from wobbling, which is the biggest risk of a shaky piece.
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2
Join the tubes into a circle or compact block, gluing the sides to each other — the closer they are, the more weight the set holds, because the load is divided among all the columns.
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3
Hold everything with masking tape and let it dry for 24 hours — patience here is worth more than extra glue.
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4
Secure the rigid base underneath and the top on top, with generous glue over the entire contact area — the large top ties the columns together and keeps them from tilting sideways.
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5
Reinforce the top with two or three crossed layers of glued cardboard if it's made only of cardboard — the crossed fibers of each layer support each other, creating a much more rigid panel.
Finishing touches
A layer of paint or kraft paper glued on the top hides the joints and gives it a store-bought finish. For benches under constant use, avoid moisture: keep the piece away from wet areas and direct sunlight.
Specialty
Visual Agronomy and Applied Biology
Idea 9
Biodegradable seed pot
Before plastic trays existed, our grandparents were already making little cups from paper and newspaper to germinate seeds. Cardboard is perfect for this because it retains moisture without getting waterlogged and, when planted directly in the ground, decomposes within weeks — the roots grow through the walls without suffering the stress of transplanting.
What you need
- Cardboard tubes (from toilet paper or paper towels)
- Scissors
- Potting mix or sifted soil
- A shallow tray to hold the cups
- Seeds (lettuce, arugula, sunflower, squash)
How to make it
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1
Make four vertical cuts of about 3 cm on one end of the tube, as if making petals — this will be the bottom of the cup.
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2
Fold the four flaps over one another, overlapping them like a milk carton, to form a closed bottom that holds the soil.
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3
Fill each cup with damp potting mix up to 1 cm from the edge, without pressing too hard, because the roots need air.
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4
Plant the seeds at the depth indicated on the package (rule of thumb: 2 to 3 times the seed's size) and water gently.
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5
Keep the cups in a tray, watering from below when the cardboard feels dry to the touch — this prevents fungus on the surface.
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6
When the seedling has two true leaves, plant the entire cup in the garden bed, burying it up to the rim.
Finishing touches
Write the plant's name and the planting date in pencil directly on the cardboard — it's the perfect marker. Avoid using tubes with paint residue or glossy plastic coating.
Idea 10
Garden bed and mulch cover
No-dig gardening uses cardboard as a barrier against weeds — a technique popularized by horticulturists imitating the way fallen leaves cover the soil in nature. The cardboard blocks the light, smothers the weeds without herbicide and, as it decomposes, feeds worms and microorganisms that leave the soil soft.
What you need
- Several cardboard tubes (or opened-up packaging)
- Water for moistening
- Homemade compost, manure or humus
- Straw, dry leaves or sawdust
- A hoe or shovel (optional)
How to make it
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1
Crush or cut the tubes to flatten them and cover the ground where the bed will be, leaving no gaps of light — the overlap should be about 10 cm between pieces.
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2
Moisten the cardboard well with water, because when dry it repels moisture and takes a long time to start decomposing.
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3
Spread 5 to 10 cm of compost or humus on top — that's where the roots will draw nutrients in the first months.
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4
Top with a thick layer of straw or dry leaves, which protects from the sun and keeps soil moisture stable.
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5
To plant, open a hole in the cover, tear the cardboard right there and place the seedling — the roots grow down into the soil while the cardboard turns into fertilizer.
Finishing touches
Make paths between beds with these same tubes covered in sawdust — in a few months you'll have living, weed-free soil underneath everything. Water the cover frequently at first, since the dry layer is slow to absorb water.
Idea 11
Countertop worm composter
Cardboard tubes are "brown carbon," the dry food that balances the wet scraps inside a composter — old farmers called this mixture "bedding." The cardboard absorbs excess moisture and, together with the worms (which eat the cardboard decomposed by microbes), turns kitchen scraps into nutrient-rich humus.
What you need
- 2 stackable pots or buckets (one with holes in the bottom, the other underneath) with lids
- Several cardboard tubes (toilet paper, paper towel or cuts from boxes)
- Red wigglers (red worms) — easy to find at fishing shops or nurseries
- Fruit scraps, vegetable peels and coffee grounds
- Scissors or craft knife
- Water in a spray bottle
How to make it
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1
Drill several 5 mm holes in the bottom of the top container — the leachate (a nutrient-rich liquid) drains through them and the worms come through later.
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2
Cut the cardboard tubes into small pieces, spritz with water until damp like a wrung-out sponge and line the bottom of the container — this is the bedding, which holds moisture at just the right level.
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3
Release the worms onto the damp bedding and wait about 3 days before feeding, so they can settle into their new home.
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4
Set aside a corner of the surface and bury small portions of vegetable scraps under the cardboard — burying prevents flies and odor, because the worms work in the dark.
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5
Always cover with a layer of dry cardboard on top after each feeding — this keeps moisture balanced and keeps insects away.
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6
Harvest the humus in 2 to 3 months, luring the worms to one side with fresh food and removing the dark fertilizer from the other side.
Finishing touches
The liquid draining into the bottom container, diluted in 10 parts water, becomes a powerful fertilizer for plants. Never add too much citrus, meat, dairy or seasoned foods — the worms prefer a simple diet of vegetables.
Care
Waterlogged or moldy cardboard should stay out of projects and out of the composter. Avoid tubes with paint or heavy glue residue if they will come into contact with plants or animals. Structures meant to bear weight (stool, scratching post) call for thicker cardboard tubes and cylinders filled or laminated to one another for extra firmness.
One final tip
Start today with the drawer organizer: ten minutes, a pair of scissors and a few tubes already transform that chaotic drawer. Then, move on to the bigger project — every tube saved is one more possibility waiting for the right moment.
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