Denim deserves a second life

How to make it

1. 1

   Cut out the pocket with the fabric margin around it, using a ruler to keep the rectangle straight — the pocket's original stitching is already your finished front.

2. 2

   Cut a lining the same size and sew wrong side to wrong side along the edges, leaving a gap for turning.

3. 3

   Turn it right side out and close the gap with invisible stitches — the lining hides the seams and gives a store-quality finish.

4. 4

   Attach the zipper to the top opening, stitching close to the edge; if you prefer, use a snap button taken from the jeans themselves.

5. 5

   Reinforce the strap (a strip of waistband folded in half) by sewing in an X inside a square — this stitch spreads the weight and doesn't rip.

How to make it

1. 1

   Cut 10 × 10 cm squares, two per coaster — measure with a ruler and mark with chalk so all are identical, because symmetry is what gives a professional look.

2. 2

   Join two squares wrong side to wrong side and sew all the way around leaving a 1 cm margin and a 3 cm gap.

3. 3

   Trim the corners diagonally (without cutting the seam) before turning — trimmed corners come out sharp and square; untrimmed ones come out crooked and rounded.

4. 4

   Turn right side out, push the corners well with the tip of closed scissors, and iron.

5. 5

   Close the gap and make a straight stitch 5 mm from the edge all around — besides closing it, this stitching gives the "industrial rustic" look.

How to make it

1. 1

   Cut the fabric into strips about 5 cm wide, always along the length — the longer the grain of the weave, the less the strips fray.

2. 2

   Join short strips by overlapping the ends and sewing a generous X; alternate light and dark tones to form the gradient.

3. 3

   Pin three strips at one end and braid normally, tightly — a loose braid sinks under the weight of feet.

4. 4

   As each braid is finished, coil it in a spiral, sewing the rounds together from behind with firm stitches; use a round or oval base as a guide.

5. 5

   Continue until you reach the desired size and hide the final tip underneath, sewing by hand.

How to make it

1. 1

   Remove the buttons with pliers, pulling from the base and not the top, so you don't crush the design — many come off whole and reusable.

2. 2

   Cut denim circles about 4 cm in diameter; make a small cut in the center and thread the keyring through.

3. 3

   Fix the metal button over the central cut, gluing or sewing with stitches around it — the heavy metal over the thick fabric balances nicely.

4. 4

   Make use of the zipper: its pull tab, isolated, becomes a raw and beautiful pendant for the same keychain.

How to make it

1. 1

   Open the legs by cutting the side seams and iron them — the double panel comes with the ready-made center fold, which gives a nice drape.

2. 2

   Draw the shape: wider at the bottom, narrower at the chest, with a rounded top (use a plate as a guide for the curve).

3. 3

   Hem all the edges by folding 1 cm twice — the double hem prevents fraying, which in denim is stubborn.

4. 4

   Sew the back pocket on the chest, reusing the original stitching as decoration.

5. 5

   Attach the ties at the waist and neck with a square-and-X stitch, because apron ties endure constant pulling.

How to make it

1. 1

   Cut the rectangle, fold it in half wrong side to wrong side and sew two sides — leave one side open for the filling.

2. 2

   Turn right side out; thick denim holds heat well and doesn't leak grains.

3. 3

   Mix the rice with the aromatics if you like and fill to two-thirds — overfilling makes the pack hard and inflexible.

4. 4

   Sew the opening shut with very close stitches, in two passes, because grains find the tiniest gap.

5. 5

   To use hot, 1.5 minutes in the microwave; for cold, a few hours in the freezer inside a clean bag.

How to make it

1. 1

   Cut the patch with 2 cm extra beyond the tear in every direction — the margin is what stops the tear from continuing around the spot.

2. 2

   Round the corners of the scrap, because straight corners fray first.

3. 3

   Pin it underneath the piece (internal patch) or on top (visible patch, boro style).

4. 4

   Sew with a straight stitch or blanket stitch around it, in two parallel passes — the second pass reinforces against washing.

5. 5

   For a visible finish, use decorative stitches in a contrasting thread, forming rays or spirals.

How to make it

1. 1

   Remove the seat from the stool with the screwdriver, working over a table — take a photo first to remember the assembly order.

2. 2

   Cut the denim with 8 cm extra beyond the edge of the seat, all around.

3. 3

   Stretch the fabric firm and staple in the center of each side first, then close the intervals — stretching from the center to the edges avoids ripples, like stretching a bedsheet.

4. 4

   At the corners, make envelope-style folds before stapling, to avoid a buildup of bulk.

5. 5

   If you want water repellency, rub candle wax on the already stretched fabric and apply heat with a hair dryer so the wax penetrates the weave — always test on a scrap first.

How to make it

1. 1

   Cut the legs at the desired height and join them by sewing the sides, forming a larger tube — the original fold of the jeans' seam is free factory reinforcement.

2. 2

   Close the bottom with a double cross seam, because the bottom concentrates all the weight and is the first point to give way.

3. 3

   Make the hem at the top by folding 3 cm inward and sew leaving an open channel of 2 cm — this tunnel will receive the cord.

4. 4

   Thread the cord through the tunnel with a pin attached to the tip guiding the way.

5. 5

   Test the weight gradually: hang it first with light objects to check whether the hem held the tension.

How to make it

1. 1

   Cut two triangles or rectangles of denim slightly larger than the bag's base.

2. 2

   Sew one triangle inside the base and one outside, aligning the edges — two layers in opposite positions double the strength without making it too stiff.

3. 3

   Reinforce each handle tip with a denim square sewn in an X inside a square (the "box stitch"), which is the standard used on load-bearing straps and backpacks.

4. 4

   Go over the stitching twice at the handle points, with a short stitch — short stitches distribute force better than long ones.

How to make it

1. 1

   Cut the rectangle keeping the pockets distributed, at least about 50 × 60 cm — position the pockets at different heights, like in a shop window.

2. 2

   Reinforce the top of the fabric by folding and sewing a 4 cm hem, creating a firm channel.

3. 3

   Lightly sand the slat and make a hole in the center for hanging; hanger wood is already treated and doesn't warp easily.

4. 4

   Slide the slat through the fabric's channel; the weight now goes down through the wood instead of pulling the fabric stitch by stitch.

5. 5

   Fix a firm hook on the wall, preferably with the anchor suited to the wall type, and hang it — the rule is simple: a weak hook on a firm wall holds more than a strong hook on loose plaster.